Q & A with Geoffrey Wilson

Geoffrey Wilson, 41, North Hills

Geoffrey Wilson, 41, moved to Pittsburgh a year ago to settle down with his fiancée. Originally from New Jersey, he has spent the last 12 years making a name for himself in Chicago bars. He was voted Chicago’s Reader Magazine’s Best Bartender of 2008.  Wilson, who has been working at Embury in the Strip District, is on the forefront of reviving the art of cocktailing in this traditionally beer drinking town.

How long have you been bartending?

Wilson: Basically since I turned 21, around 1989.  I take that back, I’ve been seriously bartending since 1996 when it became a full-time job.

Did you chose it or did it chose you?

I chose it.  I like serving drinks to be quite honest I also like serving beer.  I’ve always been a beer person.  I started getting into cocktails as an art form in 2006. I’ve always felt strongly about quality and control in pouring drinks and beer.  When cocktails started making a comeback it was the natural direction for me.  I enjoy making the drinks properly without taking shortcuts.

Is there a national trend going on now with pre-prohibition cocktails?

Not anymore.  In my mind a trend is something that sparks and dies out.  It has grown beyond a trend now. I think one of the reasons that it will persist is the fact that cocktailing is an American tradition.  It is as American as bourbon.  The cocktail culture started in the United States, and spread to other places.

How are the classic cocktails going over in Pittsburgh?

The whole idea is to re-introduce pre-prohibition culinary cocktails to people who really haven’t had the opportunity to experience them otherwise.

There are people here who appreciate this, and they aren’t just the wine and cheese crowd.  We’ve even had a 21^st birthday party, which is way beyond what I did at that age.  There’s good food in Pittsburgh and definitely good beer, why not good cocktails? We’re just filling in a gap that’s there

How complex is this type of bartending?

It’s not like bartending for the masses, each drink is a bit complex and takes longer to make.  I make all of my own syrups, and I am always experimenting and coming up with new syrups for new drink ideas.  All of the juices that we use are freshly squeezed, made to order.  We make homemade bitters.  We have come up with about four so far, and there are already plans for more in the future.  Even the ice that is used is carefully prepared.  Right now we are making ice cubes with distilled water.  It freezes at a lower temperature so it will chill a drink without watering down a drink.  Eventually we will be using ice balls and shards, tall thick pieces of ice that fit one per glass.

How do you see the profession of bartending?

Bartenders are artists.  They are almost like chefs in the sense that you take ingredients and make something that makes people go wow.  There is so much more to drinking than taking shots or chugging beers, although there’s nothing wrong with that either.

What’s your favorite cocktail?

Anything with bourbon in it.

I take that back.  I can’t chose one, it changes all the time.  I like anything that’s well balanced.  Except vodka.  I really don’t like vodka because there’s nothing to it.  Anytime you distill a grain and take out every flavor and then keep distilling it until it’s a clear liquid, you have vodka.  It sucks.